Estación performs at Bluegrass in La Roche – photo © Angelika Hernmarck
This report on day one at France’s Bluegrass in La Roche festival is a contribution from Swiss bluegrass writer and promoter Angelika Hernmarck. She will provide a daily update this week as the music rolls on.
What can I say? I’m still a little overwhelmed by everything that happened yesterday. After settling into our apartment, we dove right into the crowd – and La Roche being La Roche, one of the first doors we passed opened to reveal none other than Alain Kempf and his lovely sister with her husband. And many more hugs and happy reunions followed on the way to the music.
Of the six French bands playing from 7:00 to 9:00 p.m. across various local venues, we only managed to catch a brief glimpse of Tricyclette. Time management is key here – there’s simply no way to hear all the simultaneous bands and greet all the people who, over the years, have become like an extended family. Tricyclette are: Christophe Constantin (mandolin), Isabelle Groll (guitar), and Jean-Paul Delon (ukulele, bass). And like last year, they delighted the audience again with their bluegrass take on Chansons Françaises from the 1950s, and with plenty of good humor thrown in. A charming trio with a traditional feel and a lot of spirit – I’ll definitely try to hear more of them these days.
Next up on our personal list was Estación from Argentina. They were introduced to the bluegrass world in 2023 on Bluegrass Today (read here), and now we had the joy of hearing them live. And yes, it’s true – How Mountain Girls Can Love harmonies work just as well in Buenos Aires!
The crowd was drawn in by their sweet vocals and warm stage presence. I look forward to hearing Matt (guitar), Nuala (fiddle), Juma (banjo), Dani Boy (mandolin) and Iri (bass) again. Their harmonies and stage charm really worked their magic – there’s something special about bluegrass sung in a second language but felt from the heart.
We then made our way to Brasserie Mino, hoping to grab a bite before the highlight of the evening: Rapidgrass from Colorado. But between the café and the stage, we were stopped again and again by friends we hadn’t seen in years – such a joy! Among them: Darby Brandli (everybody knows her!) with her husband Bruno and grandson Dorian, Swiss-based bluegrass veteran Lilly Pavlak (still dreaming of moving back to bluegrass-rich Czechia soon), Herbert and Heidi Schildhammer (happy 50th anniversary!), Ti’Pierre and his wife Nathalie, both deeply involved in Kids on Bluegrass Europe, fiddler Tijmen Veelenturf from Utrecht, whom I had just met in Switzerland in May as a member of Kristy Cox’s touring band, banjo player Lluis Gomez from Barcelona, Spain, Thierry Schoysman from Belgium … and so many more friends from Switzerland, all over Europe and the US.
It was that unmistakable Bluegrass in La Roche feeling again: music around every corner, hugs, laughter, and that big collective sigh of “We’re here again.”
By the way, if you want real-time impressions, Maria – daughter of festival director Christopher Howard-Williams – is doing a great job sharing updates via the festival’s social media channels. (By the way, it’s amazing to see how the whole Howard-Williams family is now involved. And the kids we met many years ago are wow-ing me. As we say in German, “Aus Kindern werden Leute” – kids grow up and become such wonderful people.)
And then it was time: Rapidgrass took the “stage” – which in this case was just a small patch in front of the brasserie. Minimal amplification (one mic, two small speakers, no lights), but maximum energy. The sound wasn’t perfect, but the vibe? Electric. A few hundred people stood tightly packed, clapping, cheering, and singing along for almost 90 minutes. My personal heroes of the show were the people serving food and drinks at Mino – gracefully weaving through the crowd, smiling, balancing plates and glasses in the tightest of spaces, all while bluegrass magic unfolded around them.
The band’s lineup here is Mark Morris (guitar, vocals), Alex Johnstone (mandolin, vocals), Charlie Parker Mertens (upright bass), Andy Reiner (violin) and Jon Wirtz (melodica – admittedly not the traditional bluegrass instrument, but totally fitting this show!), with special guest: Pete Wernick (banjo, vocals). Yes – Dr. Banjo himself! All of them are also teaching this week at the La Roche Bluegrass Workshop just up the hill, organized by Gilles Rézard. This year’s adult camp has gathered 140 participants and 14 instructors (info here) – an incredible project that has grown to its limits over the years.
Pete’s Wernick Method Bluegrass Jamming approach has certified instructors all over the world, including Gilles Rézard and many more in Europe, helping beginners build the confidence to jam. And I trust this is happening at the workshop just now as well!
Back to the music: Rapidgrass delivered their signature style – blending tradition with modern improvisation. The mix included Hot Rize material and some of their own. Tunes often morphed seamlessly into each other; at one point, Peter Rowan’s Midnight Moonlight gave way to a haunting delivery of my favorite instrumental, Jerusalem Ridge, before slipping back into the song again. And as usual, Mark and Alex had prepared (or improvised?) new lyrics referencing La Roche and their joy to be here in some songs – honest and funny and heartfelt.
Honestly, I find it hard to put this feeling into words – you probably know what I mean. If you’ve ever been to Bluegrass in La Roche, you understand. If not, maybe you’ve felt something similar at your own favorite bluegrass gathering. But La Roche really is something unique. In just two decades, it’s grown into the biggest bluegrass festival in Europe, and each year it gets better. With a program that dares to stretch the genre’s borders, it balances top US acts with incredible European talent. And the hospitality – both for visitors and musicians – is exceptional. Over 250 volunteers, many traveling in from other countries, even the US, make this all possible.
And the best part? This was just the beginning. Today promises even more: starting at 5:30 p.m., the 140 camp participants will take the stage in their groups, followed by their instructors. After that, the La Roche Bluegrass All Stars Band – a mix of top European musicians – will play a special set. And then, at 9:00 p.m., the official festival opening ceremony will begin, followed by Tanasi (USA) and Rapidgrass, this time on the big stage – with full sound, lights, and all the magic that La Roche is known for.
Check back tomorrow for Chapter Three. Until then—pick on, and enjoy the ride!
